Hi Everyone 


Milan fashion week was once again a fabulous experience. I feel extremely privileged to be able to do what I love so much. In a world full of ugliness, illness and heart ache, a little superficial pretentiousness distracts my mind with the beauty and art of couture. My guilty pleasure you could call it. 

Read about my other Fashion week experiences here


Here a recap of Milan Fall Winter fashion week


Fashion week started of with the very sad news of Karl Lagerfeld’s passing. This is such a loss for the fashion community. He was an incredibly talented genius. He had a way of combining superficial with depth and always said what was on his mind It was often controversial but he said it anyway. 


Day 2 -Byblos , Arthur Arbesser & Moncler


Byblos

This was the first show of Milan Fall Winter 2019. The show was packed and loads of influencers were seen in the front rows. The set had an incredibly cool sort of holographic dome structure. The models looked like they came out of a blizzard with frosty make up details. The show was not only the female collection, but included the male collection too. It seems that women’s prèt-à-porter is now moving in this direction. More and more brands are combining the Male and Female collections in what was traditionally the women’s fashion week. The collection was very modern. Big puffer jackets with the same holographic style as the dome. The women’s collection featured a lot of pearl white. Some pinks, lilac and orange. Sheer fabrics with glitzy details. Big fluffy, furry boots were prominent and also hockey styled boots. Winnie Harlow closed the futuristic runway in a bedazzled gown that stole the show, comprising of a delicate sheer mesh fabric bedazzled with iridescent mirrored shards.


Images copyright Yvonne Aeberhard

On day 2 I also attended Arthur Arbesser & the spectacular Moncler showcase and street party. Unfortunately I got no invites for Gucci, but I did get to see the street style, which at Gucci is always very eccentric and over the top.


Day 3 – Max Mara, FENDI, Anteprima, Genny, Moschino & Gucci Showroom

I was already out of the door by 8:30 to go to the Max Mara show. After this I had FENDI, followed by Anteprima, Genny & the Gucci resee at the Gucci Show room and then after a quick outfit change I went to the Moschino show.

The Gucci showroom


At the Gucci show room I was only allowed smart phone photos. The showroom is absolutely gorgeous. It has wall-to-wall, deep dark red carpeting and all the typical Gucci eccentric details. The room is accentuated with glass showcases for the accessories, rich upholstered Italian style furniture and wall paper that tells a story.

Gucci collection for fall winter 19.20


The Gucci collection for fall winter 2019 is very androgynous. The collection was designed with the thought that there should be no boundaries between the women’s and the men’s collections and that both sexes should be able to play with the idea of wearing the same clothes. In fact the invite was a mask of Hermaphroditus, the two-sexed child of Aphrodite and Hermes. He has long been a symbol of androgyny or effeminacy, and was portrayed in Greco-Roman art as a female figure with male genitals. I found the collection to be harder and more tailored than the previous collections under the direction of Allesandro Michele. No flowers and no mixed prints and no layering, with more neutral tones.

Images by Photo by Filippo Fior

Read about the FENDI show here

Moschino


I also attended the fun, exaggerated and over-the-top Moschino show. This was such a fun interactive show. The invite was a price tag and if you saw the show you would understand why. The show was basically like a gameshow … I guess you could compare it to “The price is right!”, an American game show where contestants guess the price of house hold appliances and the like. This was the most interesting show I have ever attended. As the show started the curtain slowly raised to reveal a glitzy stage. The collection was all about luxury, maybe even over-the-top, kitch luxury. Loads of diamate and crystals on the clothes and on the accessories. Jeremy Scott always creates fun funky fashion for Moschino. The show ended with Jeremy Scott doing his runway bow and then jumping into the red Ferrari while golden coin like confetti rains onto the stage.
Here you can see the show:


Day 4 –  Fendi resee , Sportmax , Marni & Aigner

My day started with a FENDI resee at the FENDI showroom. Followed by Sportmax, Marni & Aigner shows.

Sportmax


The Sportmax runway was covered with pink beach sand. Sportmax brought back a trend…. the leather baseball cap. With their latest collection they had baseball caps in a leather and in felt, in colours black, blue and camel. The Sportmax collection for fall winter 19.20 is neutral tones, blacks, light grays, camel and light blues. Oversized was still trending but we saw a lot of tailoring too. I liked the collection. I got to go to the Max Mara Show room and see the collection up close.

Images copyright Yvonne Aberhard


Day 5 – Resee’s – Bottega, Prada , Etro and Max Mara. Cividini & Missoni runway shows.

ETRO

Etro is a creative and classy on fire brand in Milan. The collection is made from beautiful materials that are rich in detail. The prints were beautiful. The aristocratic message was clear in the collection’s tapestry-like embroidery. Interestingly Etro also had models that I would guess were in their 40’s or even 50’s. I loved that.

Photo by Alessandro Lucioni

Missoni


Missoni always puts on a great show. This time was no different, except that I felt this time the runway lighting was too dark and I could not really see the collection as well as I would have liked to. Here again the male and female collection was shown together. Earthy neutral tones were the main focus. Oversized coats and capes in the classic Missoni knit and wide leg trousers. The collection also included some beautiful glitzy fabrics.

Images copyright Yvonne Aberhard


Trends for Fall Winter 2019.20 


Added on accessories like small bags on handbags or boots. White boots, especially tall ones. Neutral colours in lighter shades. Stripe print rather than the flowery prints from last season. Also I saw a lot of white for winter 19.20. Brands had more focus on tailoring this time although oversized is still in the running. Leather was also in many of the collections.


DID YOU KNOW? 

Have you ever wondered how it is that fashion designers all seem to have the same idea on what will be the next “it” pieces or ” it” colours? My friend Svenja explains how a trend is established.

Where do trends come from?

Svenja-Elena Ess
Fashion Designer for Denim Woman and Menswear for a Premium Fashion Brand

-Trends do not start with the designers, they are created from street fashion. Let me explain this by using the boyfriend denim as an example. For 15 years the bestselling denim was skinny Jeans. But then more and more women experimented with wearing boyfriend jeans styles which are then imported and adapted by the designers.


Trend scouts all over the world are essential to the process. They work for trend networking companies and look for new trends and colours which they summarise in special forums or blogs for the fashion industry. Their job is like a style guide for colours, patterns and fabrics for the upcoming fashion fairs. The Pantone Institution is also really important. They are number one in colour research. They have for example the privilege to call the “colour of the year” every year.


Coming back to the “boyfriend” denim… if a high fashion brand is now showing everybody in the world the “boyfriend” denim at their fashion show, the fashion magazines are shooting this trend and the bloggers, which are more important than ever, are posting this trend on the social media channels to supply the point of sale.


After all those important steps of creating a trend we have to go into mainstream. The “boyfriend” denim is now seen at all the fashion shows, in fashion magazines and on blogger channels. Now Labels like Zara, H&M and Mango will introduce this trend into their stores.